Although Taiwan is not technically included in the typical “Southeast Asia Backpacker’s Itinerary,” it’s an easy trip to tack-on before heading home. Many of our Canadian friends visited Taipei as a stopover before crossing the Pacific back to western North America. For us, a family friend living in Taipei generously offered to show us around her area - and better yet, offered up her home as refuge from hostel life.

China says Taiwan is a province of their country. But if you ask someone from Taiwan, they’ll say that it’s very much its own entity. Politically complicated. But no matter what political boundaries you draw, Taiwan is home to extraordinary cultural and natural landscapes. Taipei, its capital city, is a unique mix of high-voltage chaos you would find in Hanoi, but with an orderly sophistication born from its ancient Chinese roots.

Apart from the electrifying downtown neighborhoods, the area just outside of Taipei is an exceptional display of the natural beauty found on the small island-nation. We were lucky enough to have a personal tour guide with a car - thank you Cecelia! If you can manage to get out of the city for a day trip or two, you’ll wish you had enough time to explore every corner of Taiwan.

Downtown Taipei

Taipei 101

The world’s first LEED certified skyscraper! Big stuff for sustainability!!!! Definitely give this place a visit if you’re interested in architecture. It’s one of the only skyscrapers in the world where you can see it’s damper - the 728-ton ball of steel that sits near the top of the building to provide stability during high wind and seismic activity. The observation decks give you an incredible vantage point to see the city tucked along the surrounding mountains.

After the dizzying ride back down to the the lower levels, have a wander around the designer stores of the Taipei 101 mall. Among the dazzling luxe storefronts, next to the Adidas entrance on the ground floor, there’s a world-famous dumpling store you won’t want to miss for lunch.

Taipei 101 is the tallest building in Taipei.

Din Tai Fung Dumplings

As foodies, we made it a priority to fill up on dumplings at the 101 branch of Din Tai Fung. We suggest going before the lunch rush, around 11:30 or so, otherwise you’ll be waiting on a table for ages. They seat customers using a numbered ticket system, giving you a menu to browse before you get to your table.

After ordering, head over to the kitchen windows and watch in awe as the skilled team of dumpling experts fill towers of steamers with little packages of tasty goodness.

Beitou Distict Thermal Baths

Thermal baths are such a fundamental part of Taiwanese culture, you’d be doing yourself an injustice not to partake. There are a lot of private baths which tend to be more expensive. If you’re cool with sidling up with the locals in a crowded bath, go to Takinoyu Bath Room (loosely translated) - the public pools in Beitou. It’s far less touristy, much cheaper, and as authentic as it gets. You’re bound to make a friend or two.

Most pools are organized the same way, with 3-4 baths of varying temperatures, plus one cold one. You start at the lowest temperature and work your way to the hottest one, intermittently dunking in the cold bath before moving up. You should only spend 5-10 minutes in each bath, or a total of 30-45 minutes in the heat total. More than that and you risk dehydration or passing out. Otherwise, if you follow the typical protocol, the hot-cold-even-hotter regimen is great for circulation, skin health, and general wellbeing.

Don’t underestimate the intensity of hot baths. Bring water, you’ll be sweating. And hey, it’s okay that the 95-year old Taiwanese grandma can stand the heat longer than you can. She’s been at it a long time, that’s why she’s a 95-year old Taiwanese grandma still killin’ it in the hot baths.

Shilin Night Market

Shilin Night Market is a hugely popular night market in the Shilin neighborhood of Taipei. There are endless food stalls where you can sample local cuisine, cheap stores selling fun merchandise, clothing racks of all styles, and five star hot chicken.

Datong Market

Datong Market is a calmer daytime market. It’s a mix of funky, hipster boutique stores next to funky wholesale stores with bags of dried mushrooms and spices. It’s one of those places you just wander around and soak up. We found a traditional pharmacy where old man was weighing out piles of mysterious dried products, bent over a photocopy of what looked like an ancient magical spell. Who knows what you might find?

Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall

The Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, a landmark dedicated to the former president of the Republic of China, is one of the most popular monuments in Taipei. It sits on the east side of the Memorial Hall square - now also called the Liberty Square - a bright massive square in the Zhongzheng District of Taipei. The square is also home to the famous National Concert Hall and the National Theatre, two beautiful buildings themselves. The Liberty Square is a popular location for public events and gatherings, like parades and celebrations.

Anna in Liberty Square with the Memorial Hall in the distance.

National Palace Museum

The National Palace Museum is an astonishingly huge collection of ancient Chinese art. There are 3 massive floors full of artifacts ranging from old silk textiles, to colorful pottery, gorgeous jewelry, old weapons, and scrawls of intricate calligraphy. We could easily spend hours on each floor, or even days taking it all in. You can take a free tour at 10am or 3pm, booked in advance online. We opted to go first thing in the morning when they opened, hoping to avoid crowds. Around mid-morning, bus loads of tourists arrive and quickly fill the exhibition halls. If you’re alright to skip the free tour, we recommend going first thing in the morning.

The museum is a bit out of town, but it’s just a bus from the main Shilin metro station. It’s about a 15-minute ride on the R30, minibus 18 or 19, or bus 255, 304, or 815.

Grand Palace Hotel

This huge and extravagant hotel in Shilin was created in 1952 when Chiang Kai-Shek decided to build a hotel for international guests of distinction, such as diplomats and celebrities. Although building began in 1952, the main building wasn’t completed until 1973. The hotel is gorgeous, and although out of our price range, still worth the trip to see. There are a few restaurants and cafes in the main building that would be nice to enjoy lunch or an afternoon coffee.

The Grand Palace Hotel secret hidden underground tunnels

Fun fact: there are also hidden tunnels beneath the hotel, built in case any important guests needed to make a quick escape in the event of a disaster or terrorist attack. The tunnels are usually closed to the public, but we knew a guy.

Day Trips from Taipei

Yangmingshan National Park

Yangmingshan National Park, Taipei’s closest escape, is full of nature-loving activities. There are plenty of hiking trails for you to work up a sweat, but if you’re looking for a more passive appreciation of the park’s beauty (as we were), there are wonderful flower fields and picnic areas to relax in. The drive alone is a mesmerizing trip along windy roads hugging the mountain, dipping and circling around the adjoining valleys. On a sunny day, you’ll have a clear view of the city nestled between the mountains, back-dropped by the endless deep blue ocean behind it. If you squint really hard, you might be able to see mainland China.

Xiaoyoukeng Recreation Area (Sulfur Volcano)

As one of the founding sites of the National Park, Xiaoyoukeng is a must-see. The area is at the far-reach of the main mountain road. There’s a bus stop if you’re keen on public transport from downtown too.

The post-volcanic area is complete with a simple information center, natural hot springs, steam vents, and a series of trails to explore the surrounding area. Just after the info center, a simple walkway brings you to a viewing platform for the main fumarole, an area that exhausts geothermal steam from a cut out of the mountainside.

If you follow the longer trail beyond the viewing platforms, you’ll reach the top of Mt. Qixing, the highest point in all of Taipei City. Yes, even higher than the top of Taipei 101.

Sulfur volcano in Yangmingshan National Park.

Calla Lily Fields (Zhuzihu)

Come springtime in the park, the entire valley of Zhuzihu will be thick with calla lilies. The months of March and April are best to see the flowers in bloom. If you plan it right, you can even catch the Zhuzihu Calla Lily Festival.

Spend an hour wandering the serene walking paths, or opt to pick-your-own bouquet of lilies. It’s very muddy around the swampy plants, so expect to muck up your sneakers. Otherwise, try to squeeze into the wellies available for borrow - it’ll be worth it when you’re knee deep.

Stone House Lunch

There’s a restaurant on the way into (or out of) the park called Stone House. Amazing, authentic Taiwanese food in a gorgeous location. If you call ahead for a reservation, ask to be seated in the stone rooms, originally built as an old guesthouse. The rooms are decorated with traditional Taiwanese art and artifacts. The cozy vibe is perfect for any afternoon.

Otherwise, there’s a second building with more seating just across the street. It’s got a pair of resident mischievous hounds pacing the far wall of windows. After you’ve had your fill of stinky tofu and sweet potato greens, meander to the garden out back. All the lush greenery will lull you into a post-meal bliss, making you wish you had your own personal stone house.

Tatun Natural Park

Tatun looks like it was designed to be a postcard, especially during springtime bloom. The pink bursts look like something out of a fairytale, not to mention the dark wood boardwalks over idyllic koi ponds.

Any combination of the walking trails will bring you to unreal views of the landscape. Or follow the lead of local families and plop down in a patch of grass for the most wholesome picnic of your life.

Tatun Natural Park network of paths and walkways.

Jiufen Old Street

Jiufen is a far ways out from downtown Taipei, but it’s well-worth the trip. The Instagrammable alley stairways with bright red lanterns and signs are quintessential Taiwan. We spent an entire morning walking around the shop stalls and taking pictures. There are tons of food options to try, so make sure you go on an empty stomach! There are also amazing art galleries and souvenir shops if you’re looking to do a bit of shopping.

Yehliu Geopark

Yehliu Geopark is part of a national scenic area on the north coast of the island. We walked around the most popular part of the area where rock formations create an other-worldly landscape along the ocean. The park is best known for the Queen’s Head, a rock formation resembling the head of Queen Elizabeth I. Tourists come from all over to take a picture with her head. But you better visit soon if you want to see her, because he neck is eroding at 0.2-0.5cm per year, and is expected to break in the next few years. Good luck!

Until Next Time

That’s all we’ve got for our quick 4-day trip to Taiwan. We were so infinitely lucky and grateful to have Cecilia as a local guide and gracious host. Thanks again Cecilia! Hopefully next time we’ll be able to stay longer :)